Thinking Inside the Box

Green Salad with Pistachio Dust

Usually by this time of year, I’m rolling in lettuce and other greens, bringing in snap peas by the bushel, and harvesting radishes left and right. But right now, my garden is almost 100% bolted greens and sad tomatoes, planted … Continue reading 

Inkling of Spring

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This morning I woke up to several glorious things. Light streaming in the window, which indicated that it actually was morning. And a small sound from the room one door down, a little voice chirping “Mama, mama.” An amazing sound … Continue reading 

Wild Beasts

I recently took on a project that I’ve been meaning to do for a while and I’ve been putting off and putting off, mostly because it’s kind of high maintenance and I’m kind of a low maintenance type of girl. The project was to grow a wild yeast culture using the organic grapes that grow in our P-patch. 



This year the grapes were ripe right before we were due to go out of town for a week, so I picked them and then froze them, hoping that it would still work but setting my expectations fairly low in case it didn’t. I figured with that handicap and the fact that our house is almost as cold as it is outside, I wasn’t sure any yeast could survive, let alone thrive.

The starter in it’s early home, by the oven.

I’m using the method from Nancy Silverton’s Breads from La Brea Bakery. I was given a copy of this book as a wedding gift (I think?) and haven’t had a chance to use it at all since every recipe in the book calls for a starter of some sort that I just didn’t have the time to set up until now. The recipes in the book are fairly technical, so it’s not the best book for beginning bakers, but since I’ve baked a bit before I feel comfortable with the way she talks about the bread. I take it all with a gain of salt because she’s way way more into bread baking than me, but even us amateurs like a good loaf now and then. She does a very good job explaining all the steps and giving tips for how to do each part of the bread making process. 




So I went ahead with all the steps. It wasn’t too complicated, just sort of messy and delicate, also requiring a heaping helping of patience. The process takes about 2 weeks, from the day you crush your grapes to the day you bake you first loaf.

The first 9 days were simple. You make a mixture of flour and water, crush the grapes and add them, all secured in a clean airtight container. You check it every day, but you don’t have to do anything else very often. 


After those first 9 days is when it gets a little more time consuming. You have to feed the mixture 3 times a day–breakfast, lunch and dinner–with a rigid schedule of how long the bread can go without being fed. And you have to dump out a ton of mixture and start over with just a little over a pound every morning. This was the part I had the hardest time with. It’s not in my nature to throw away pounds and pounds of perfectly good flour. One, we’re pretty frugal around here, and two, I’m a pastry chef. Food waste is a huge sin in professional kitchens. 


So I set out on a mission to use up as much of that dang starter as I could. I also tried to give a lot of it away, by offering starter batches to friends and people in our farm co-op. I think I ended up giving away 4 batches, and using the starter in an equal number of unexpected projects in the kitchen. 

I made lots of cracker dough to freeze for entertaining over the holidays, with cayenne and olive oil. I used some to make sourdough waffles with apple cider. Eating those was like a little preview of heaven for foodies. And I made crumpets. Dozens of crumpets, two days in a row. Some of which we ate and the rest of which maxed out what was left of our freezer space. 

I can’t share the recipe for any of these things, since I made them all up on the fly. I guess my baking and cooking knowhow came in handy here, because I was able to just add enough of ingredients X, Y, and Z to make stuff work. 


What I can share is a very simple recipe for a salad. On Friday after making crumpets for what seemed like hours, we used them as our “challah” for a Shabbat dinner with our friend Aviva. Dinner ended up being sort of rushed, as she needed to be at the airport at 6:30, but it was still good to see a friend and share a meal, and to be able to enjoy some of the fruits of my hard work in the days leading up our meal. 



















The salad had endive, warm roasted beets and goat cheese and a dijon vinaigrette. That’s it, the entire recipe. Really. I think it would be equally good with some butter lettuce or blue cheese. And I suppose you could really use any vinaigrette that you like. Whatever you have lying around really. The secret is that the beets should still be warm, so the cheese and the dressing really meld all together. That’s what made it so fantastic.


I did finally get around to actually baking some real bread on Saturday–a rustic white bread, which I shaped into rolls for dipping in the minestrone I made that night. (More crust is totally better, right?) The bread was great. It rose slowly but had great oven spring, so I know my yeast is happy and healthy. Onto real challah this Friday!



Easy Dijon Vinaigrette
makes about 1 cup


1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
2 Tbsp balsamic vinegar
2 Tbsp champagne vinegar (or all balsamic)
1 Tbsp or so sugar, honey or my favorite, pomegranate molasses
1 Tbsp good dijon mustard
1-2 cloves crushed garlic
salt and pepper to taste


Shake all the ingredients in a jar, adding more mustard if necessary to achieve a very smooth, emulsified texture. Taste for acidity and add more sweet if you like. I tend to like my pretty acidic and low on the oil. Keeps in the fridge for 2 weeks or so. 

Créme Fraîche X2

Last Wednesday I had a few glasses of wine with some friends I don’t see enough of. We decided that no matter the weather on Saturday, we were going to BBQ. I promptly forgot all about it, especially that I had offered to host.

On Friday, James called to ask what I was planning on putting together, and what could they bring. Talk about think fast! I knew that I was planning on making salmon cakes for dinner, and that I wanted to grill asparagus. I also had a new potato salad recipe on the menu. He decided to pick up some early corn and some rosé, and that they would bring dessert. Okay, plan in place.
Saturday rolls around…early. Lilli decides that 6am is the perfect time to wake up after staying up late to have Shabbat dinner at Joe’s parents’ house. After trying to sleep through her kicking and squirming and rolling and practicing crawling in our bed for a while, I got up and made cinnamon pecan coffee cake. “This is the best breakfast I have ever eaten” is declared an hour later by two ravenous 8 year olds. OK, next. Make a picnic, go to the zoo. Make a pitstop first for chicken feed. 3:30pm, eat ice cream. 4:30 head home, and then make a quick trip to the grocery store for a few key ingredients I knew I didn’t have.

Joe kindly took Lilli with him and the boys to the park down the street so I could focus on making dinner without having to stop every 5 minutes and play a game. In the hour until he brought her home, I was able to defrost 1 1/2 lbs of leftover salmon and then make the cakes, and put together a lemon mayo sauce to go with; roast 3 lbs. of small delicious potatoes and some garlic for the potato salad; slice a loaf of bread to grill; rinse and trim a bunch of asparagus; and probably something else that I am forgetting, like do the dishes. This is about when I realized that not only did the salmon have créme fraîche, but also the potato salad was going to be dressed with the stuff. I’ve been trying unsuccessfully for weeks to make it from scratch and it has yet to turn out as thick as it should be but it still tastes good. I plan on getting it right, but for now I’m content with trying.

About 6:30 people showed up and it got a little more fun. Copper set the table and entertained Lilli while I finished everything up. The boys brought a friend home from the park and proceeded to go wild in the backyard. Drinks were poured, bread was eaten, and it was a perfect evening despite the chaos that threatened to storm in at any moment.

This potato salad recipe is very simple. It’s plain but in a good way. Sprinkling the vinegar on the potatoes while they are still hot allows them to really absorb that flavor. The tang from the créme fraîche really works well with the rich flavor of a well roasted potato. It doesn’t keep as well as mayonaise based salads, but you won’t have to worry about that because there won’t be any left. I wasn’t even able to take a picture because it was gone too fast!

Roasted Potato Salad with Créme Fraîche
adapted from Good Day for a Picnic by Jeremy Jackson
serves 6

2 lbs potatoes (I used a mix of yukon, red and purple)
3 Tbsp extra virgin olive oil, plus a little extra
salt and fresh ground black pepper
6 cloves garlic, peel on
2 Tbsp champagne vinegar
3/4 cup créme fraîche
2 Tbsp toasted pine nuts

Preheat oven to 450ºF. The original recipe calls for you to peel the potatoes, but I prefer to leave the skin on. Cut the potatoes into spears and let dry a bit. Toss in the olive oil in an ovenproof skillet or onto a baking sheet. Salt and pepper to taste. Wrap the garlic in foil with a little drizzle of olive oil and put them in with the potatoes. Roast for about 45 minutes, stirring every 15 minutes or so, until the potatoes have gotten nice and golden and crusty. The garlic will be done also.

While the potatoes are still hot, cut them into smaller, bite sized pieces. Jeremy Jackson recommends a serrated knife. In a good sized bowl, toss the potatoes with the vinegar. Press the softened garlic out of the skins and mush it into a paste. Add it to the potatoes and toss the whole thing again. Taste for salt and pepper.

Let the whole thing cool a bit, and then spread the créme fraîche on top, sprinkling the pine nuts over last.

 

Same-Old-Same-Old

I am fond of making it up as I go along. Normally, I feel that this is a superb way to live my life, and I wouldn’t change it if you paid me to. Lately though, I’ve been having to live a little less spontaneously. I guess this is what you get when you are hauling an 8 month old around with you everywhere you go.

I miss it a bit–the spontaneity. In addition to that, I’ve been in a rut in the kitchen. I hate being in a rut when it comes to cooking and eating. Sometimes I find a new recipe or ingredient that I get a crush on for a minute or two and I eat it a lot, but then I move on or change it up. My husband and step-sons could probably eat the same 7-10 meals for the rest of their natural lives and be totally thrilled about it. I am not like that at all. To help with all of this, recently I’ve done two things: One, I joined a cookbook club and two, I started actually using all of the cookbooks I already owned. Even when I don’t actually make a recipe from a new cookbook, just looking through them on a more regular basis inspires me to try new things.

So, I compromise with myself. I plan a menu once a week because it makes my life so much easier to shop only once or maybe twice a week. I use as many new recipes as I figure I’ll  have time for. I usually have at least one or two old favorites. This keeps me from feeling stagnant, and while it isn’t exactly spontaneous, it’s not totally same-old-same-old either.

Last week I made quesadillas with black beans and avocado–pretty simple. What really made dinner special though was the salad that I made to go with it. I got some really good looking cilantro and a gorgeous red cabbage. And a mango. I sliced up the cabbage very thin on the mandolin, and I slivered the mango and added it and a big handful of roughly chopped cilantro to the bowl. Then, I squeezed a lemon over the whole thing and added just a sprinkle of salt. You could just as easily use a lime, if that’s what you have on hand. I tossed it up and put it in the fridge for a couple of hours, until dinner ( I often prep things for dinner while Lilli, my 8 month old daughter, takes her afternoon nap). It was fantastic. Crisp and refreshing and sweet and tangy all at once, the perfect counterpoint to the hot sauce I drenched the quesadillas in. Add a tequila and tonic and you are all set…



Mango Red Cabbage Slaw
serves 2-3 as a side

  • 1/4 small to medium red cabbage, sliced very thin
  • 1 just ripe mango, peeled and sliced into thin wedges lengthwise
  • juice of 1 lemon (roll it on the counter first to get as much juice as possible)
  • chopped cilantro–as little or as much as you like. 
  • pinch sea salt, to taste

Combine everything in a bowl and let marinate in the fridge for an hour or so. Keeps well for a day.